Jil Sander Spring 2014 RTW (All images: Fairchild)
In the last few years we have experienced a massive ‘they-come-and-go’ effect in case of creative directors at the biggest fashion houses; they switch, leave, disappear and might never come back or, on the contrary, they start to shine as a newborn stars under a different name – freshly. As always, there are exceptions – occasional comebacks. By now you might have already figured out that my flow of thoughts is referring to the latest breaking news about Jil Sander, who had now stepped down for the third time. While I would say – or rather bag – ‘Oh Jil, don’t go!’; Vogue already wonders, ‘Who Will Take The Reins At Jil Sander?’…The thing is though, that ever since she sold her company to Prada, back in 1999, she has not been sure whether she wanted to stay at all. As WWD reported, so far one name, Gabriele Colangelo, has come to the fore who took on the pared-back aesthetics, the precision of cut and apparently he is breathing the same minimalist air the brand has always been represented. She – Jil herself – gave us the women who is never over-decorated, by setting the standard for minimalism that was both courageous and inspiring yet most of all inimitable. The fashion lips say that the German designer is about to exit her eponymous brand due to personal reasons, and that is something we might never get to know for sure and we might actually don’t even need to do so…she deserves only our homage, no matter what. If you may apologise for getting too personal, I must say that this has been a real breaking news for us that brought some real sadness in its trail, but we know that she made her stamp on the fashion industry so firmly that it will never ever fade away. Thank you, Jil!
In den letzten Jahren gab es immer wieder ein Kommen und Gehen, was die Creative Directors der großen Modehäuser angeht: Sie wechseln die Marken, gehen oder verschwinden gar und kommen vielleicht nie wieder, aber andererseits erscheinen sie manchmal wie neugeboren und beginnen frisch von vorn unter einem neuen Namen. (more…)
Left: Simonas Pham, Right: Niclas Hüntelmann (source: theones2watch)
While checking out the latest Jil Sander menswear collection from Milan Fashion Week – in which Jil chose to use colour and did it with real precision and charm – started to wonder what and who is today’s male idol, what makes a man/boy charming in the real world versus on the catwalk. From the woman point of view I would say a man is to be man if you know what I mean; masculine, tidy yet slightly stubbly, stylish but not overly dandy. That’s our husband/boyfriend/lover-to-be; but what about the new generation of literally beautiful boys? Hazel eyes, freckles here and there, curly tresses and slender proportions suggesting a bit of untouchability…being a blank beauty so to say is rather in today. But beside the new wave of male models; in fashion, sometimes the reminiscence faces of the old ‘in’ (which was more man-like) walks in and still attracts – it often takes the form of nostalgia but that’s a drag. I guess there is no conclusion of this post nor an answer, it’s a challenge for us to accept, understand and catch up with the latest male in-s; but if you ask me David Gandy is my eternal idol. What do you ladies say?
Während ich die neuste Jil Sander Männerkollektion von der Mailänder Fashion Week betrachtete – in der Jil sich entschied, Farbe zu benutzen und dies mit großer Präzision und Charme tat – fing ich an mich zu fragen, wer und was heute eine Männeridol ist und was einen Mann/Junge in der realen Welt gegenüber dem Catwalk charmant macht. (more…)
Designer Umit Benan behind the Trussardi brand reinterpreted his eponymous menswear to womenswear, by keeping the minimalistic cuts and oversized silhouettes, yet lifting the whole collection to a more sophisticated level. The collection was relaxed, there was no referring to excessive details or colours, it was all down to Earth where elegancy met some sporty edge. / Der Designer Umit Benan hinter der Marke Trussardi interpretierte seine namenhafte Männerkleidung neu zu Frauenkleidung um, indem er die minimalistischen Schnitte und übergroßen Silhouetten beibehielt und doch die gesamte Kollektion in ein eleganteres Level emporhob. Die Kollektion war zwanglos, es gab keine Hinweise auf ein Übermaß an Details oder Farben, sondern sehr bodenständig, wobei Eleganz auf einen sportlichen Touch traf. (more…)