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- BERLIN Special
During the season there comes a time when the most favorite word, MID SEASON SALE, modifies in a variety of incantations like Sample Sale Designer Sale. And since we normally are impatiently waiting for the season to end so we can shop our favorite pieces with a 50 % or even 70% off, mustering all the energy we accumulated over Christmas due to tons of chocolate and ginger bread to be ready to burst into the shops on the 28th of December. Well dear readers, you can have a much smoother way of it and I do not mean this tiny winy 10% Mid Season Something. You want to know the magic words? I chant the spell and it sounds like a seductive melody that is whispering in your ears: S A M P L E -… and … D E S I G N E R S A L E. Please, dear power of consumption, forbid. (more…)
An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx met in 1987 on their first day of school at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp – in one of the most prestigious design schools in the whole world. The belgian brand’s current line is a complete women’s ready-to-wear line comprising of shoes, bags, accessories….oh and before I forget; they have just celebrated the 15-years-birthday of their label this season, so they dug into the archives to put together their SS14 collection. On first glance, I was really taken by the sand/rust effect that was applied on one side of each models’ outfit, and half of their hairdo-s were plastered in sand too – that gave cool continuous visual thread though out the collection. The pieces otherwise followed the inspiration of the girl on a trip with an adventurous attitude, hence resulting functional, clean and delicate garments reflecting the designers unique style. The collection as well paid homage to their signature designs that were redid for the season, such as impeccable tailored leather jackets, faux socks-and-sandal booties, flat studs on leather dresses, draped scarves shimmering with gold, mottled jacquards in shades of lively purple. HBD A.F. Vandevorst!
An Vandevorst und Filip Arickx lernten sich 1987 an ihrem ersten Tag auf der Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerpen kennen – eine der prestigeträchtigsten Schulen der Welt. (more…)
There are designers – only about a few – that no matter what they do, I ‘buy’ it; because it’s cool, it’s me, and most of all it’s consistently reaches the same target in one way or another, season after season – just like Chloè does. Even though I’m not the khaki-type of girl, those desert layers that were executed so effortlessly, that they slowly made me becoming one. Loose fine knit layers, linen trousers in army khaki and off whites ruled the catwalk for the season, while the accents were created at the hips with belts, as well as at the shoulders that were emphasised. Despite some awaited masculine silhouettes, ‘A girl more sensual than before’ was seen on the runway – this is how though Clare Waight Keller, the creative director of Chloé, defined the muse of her new collection. For sure not the colours, rather the delicate fabric choices and revolving transparency gave the feminine touch – a sense of sensuality to the collection. Keller mastered something else than just the layering too; the tight accordion pleats that were so much to-die-for besides the intricate lacework and patchwork prints. All in all what we saw was more of a typically French ease than the usual sophisticated tomboy style – wondering whether we shall call it a sort of Chloè revolution, where a new kind of sensual energy took over. Bravo – I must say – we are sold!
Es gibt nur wenige Designer, bei denen es ganz egal ist, was sie machen, aber ich es sofort ‘will’! Weil es cool ist, weil es zu mir passt und weil es immer das gleiche Ziel erreicht, jede Saison – so wie Chloè. Eigentlich bin ich nicht so der Typ für Khaki, aber die Lagen und die Coolness haben mich nach und nach überzeugt. (more…)
In the last few years we have experienced a massive ‘they-come-and-go’ effect in case of creative directors at the biggest fashion houses; they switch, leave, disappear and might never come back or, on the contrary, they start to shine as a newborn stars under a different name – freshly. As always, there are exceptions – occasional comebacks. By now you might have already figured out that my flow of thoughts is referring to the latest breaking news about Jil Sander, who had now stepped down for the third time. While I would say – or rather bag – ‘Oh Jil, don’t go!’; Vogue already wonders, ‘Who Will Take The Reins At Jil Sander?’…The thing is though, that ever since she sold her company to Prada, back in 1999, she has not been sure whether she wanted to stay at all. As WWD reported, so far one name, Gabriele Colangelo, has come to the fore who took on the pared-back aesthetics, the precision of cut and apparently he is breathing the same minimalist air the brand has always been represented. She – Jil herself – gave us the women who is never over-decorated, by setting the standard for minimalism that was both courageous and inspiring yet most of all inimitable. The fashion lips say that the German designer is about to exit her eponymous brand due to personal reasons, and that is something we might never get to know for sure and we might actually don’t even need to do so…she deserves only our homage, no matter what. If you may apologise for getting too personal, I must say that this has been a real breaking news for us that brought some real sadness in its trail, but we know that she made her stamp on the fashion industry so firmly that it will never ever fade away. Thank you, Jil!
In den letzten Jahren gab es immer wieder ein Kommen und Gehen, was die Creative Directors der großen Modehäuser angeht: Sie wechseln die Marken, gehen oder verschwinden gar und kommen vielleicht nie wieder, aber andererseits erscheinen sie manchmal wie neugeboren und beginnen frisch von vorn unter einem neuen Namen. (more…)