A.F. Vandevorst’s Spring/Summer 2014 (All images: Fairchild)
An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx met in 1987 on their first day of school at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp – in one of the most prestigious design schools in the whole world. The belgian brand’s current line is a complete women’s ready-to-wear line comprising of shoes, bags, accessories….oh and before I forget; they have just celebrated the 15-years-birthday of their label this season, so they dug into the archives to put together their SS14 collection. On first glance, I was really taken by the sand/rust effect that was applied on one side of each models’ outfit, and half of their hairdo-s were plastered in sand too – that gave cool continuous visual thread though out the collection. The pieces otherwise followed the inspiration of the girl on a trip with an adventurous attitude, hence resulting functional, clean and delicate garments reflecting the designers unique style. The collection as well paid homage to their signature designs that were redid for the season, such as impeccable tailored leather jackets, faux socks-and-sandal booties, flat studs on leather dresses, draped scarves shimmering with gold, mottled jacquards in shades of lively purple. HBD A.F. Vandevorst!
An Vandevorst und Filip Arickx lernten sich 1987 an ihrem ersten Tag auf der Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerpen kennen – eine der prestigeträchtigsten Schulen der Welt. (more…)
There are designers – only about a few – that no matter what they do, I ‘buy’ it; because it’s cool, it’s me, and most of all it’s consistently reaches the same target in one way or another, season after season – just like Chloè does. Even though I’m not the khaki-type of girl, those desert layers that were executed so effortlessly, that they slowly made me becoming one. Loose fine knit layers, linen trousers in army khaki and off whites ruled the catwalk for the season, while the accents were created at the hips with belts, as well as at the shoulders that were emphasised. Despite some awaited masculine silhouettes, ‘A girl more sensual than before’ was seen on the runway – this is how though Clare Waight Keller, the creative director of Chloé, defined the muse of her new collection. For sure not the colours, rather the delicate fabric choices and revolving transparency gave the feminine touch – a sense of sensuality to the collection. Keller mastered something else than just the layering too; the tight accordion pleats that were so much to-die-for besides the intricate lacework and patchwork prints. All in all what we saw was more of a typically French ease than the usual sophisticated tomboy style – wondering whether we shall call it a sort of Chloè revolution, where a new kind of sensual energy took over. Bravo – I must say – we are sold!
Es gibt nur wenige Designer, bei denen es ganz egal ist, was sie machen, aber ich es sofort ‘will’! Weil es cool ist, weil es zu mir passt und weil es immer das gleiche Ziel erreicht, jede Saison – so wie Chloè. Eigentlich bin ich nicht so der Typ für Khaki, aber die Lagen und die Coolness haben mich nach und nach überzeugt. (more…)
Jil Sander Spring 2014 RTW (All images: Fairchild)
In the last few years we have experienced a massive ‘they-come-and-go’ effect in case of creative directors at the biggest fashion houses; they switch, leave, disappear and might never come back or, on the contrary, they start to shine as a newborn stars under a different name – freshly. As always, there are exceptions – occasional comebacks. By now you might have already figured out that my flow of thoughts is referring to the latest breaking news about Jil Sander, who had now stepped down for the third time. While I would say – or rather bag – ‘Oh Jil, don’t go!’; Vogue already wonders, ‘Who Will Take The Reins At Jil Sander?’…The thing is though, that ever since she sold her company to Prada, back in 1999, she has not been sure whether she wanted to stay at all. As WWD reported, so far one name, Gabriele Colangelo, has come to the fore who took on the pared-back aesthetics, the precision of cut and apparently he is breathing the same minimalist air the brand has always been represented. She – Jil herself – gave us the women who is never over-decorated, by setting the standard for minimalism that was both courageous and inspiring yet most of all inimitable. The fashion lips say that the German designer is about to exit her eponymous brand due to personal reasons, and that is something we might never get to know for sure and we might actually don’t even need to do so…she deserves only our homage, no matter what. If you may apologise for getting too personal, I must say that this has been a real breaking news for us that brought some real sadness in its trail, but we know that she made her stamp on the fashion industry so firmly that it will never ever fade away. Thank you, Jil!
In den letzten Jahren gab es immer wieder ein Kommen und Gehen, was die Creative Directors der großen Modehäuser angeht: Sie wechseln die Marken, gehen oder verschwinden gar und kommen vielleicht nie wieder, aber andererseits erscheinen sie manchmal wie neugeboren und beginnen frisch von vorn unter einem neuen Namen. (more…)
Another Hungarian fashion event took place on Saturday that we were pleased to be invited to, and I couldn’t wait sharing my insights with you guys. The Toni&Guy Fashion Week Budapest – just like last year – was held at the breathtaking venue of Palazzo Dorottya, running six shows one after the other, flavored with presentations by Dóra Abodi, Anh Tuan or Júlia Káldy. (more…)
In case you are already missing the warmest season, the Hermès Spring/Summer 2014 collection is definitely something for you as Christophe Lemaire took the Hermès woman into the jungle. Lemaire’s big influence was Henri Rousseau, the French artist, who painted jungles without ever having seen them. The venue just as much recalled a summer-atmosphere as did the collection; deep green jungles depicted the beautiful landscape of the Amazon. The range of summerish looks spoke of botanical freshness, embracing warm earth-colours and head-to-toe floral prints. The loose garments such as 3/4 trousers, straight dresses and trench-like airy coats flowed effortlessly around the body in a comfortable, yet slightly feminine manner. Relaxed silhouettes indicated the tropical-ease-of-living, while some statement leathers contrasted – or rather balanced – the simple culottes and low-cut shirts. By carefully sticking to that effortless chic that defines the Hermès look, it’s was both natural, wearable, and not least lovable.
Falls ihr schon die warme Jahreszeit vermisst, dann ist die Frühjahr/Sommer 2014 Kollektion von Hermès definitiv was für euch, denn Christophe Lemaire nahm die Hermès Frau mit in den Dschungel. (more…)
Today’s post got two aims; one is to feature the latest Louis Vuitton collection designed by Marc Jacobs, while the second is to say good-bye to the man just mentioned. Well yes; call it breaking news but the rumours are confirmed facts by now; Marc Jacobs is leaving LV after his 16-year-long tenure at the brand. Jacobs presented his final show in Paris, that was dedicated to celebrate his greatest hits – created entirely in black, as was his first show for the label. An eclectic mash-up of sheers, feathers, denim and excess could best describe the pieces with a hint of tomboyish feel. ‘Jacobs dedicated the show to all the women who have inspired him and the showgirl in every one of them’ – as he explained to Vogue. The reason of his leaving though – as WWD reported – is that the American designer wants to focus on taking his brand public on the stock market, as it heads towards an IPO. Well, I suppose an era has just ended and a new one is yet to come…Hello former Balenciaga creative director, Nicolas Ghesquière?
Der heutige Post hat zwei Ziele: Das erste ist, die aktuelle Louis Vuitton Kollektion Designed by Marc Jacobs vorzustellen, und das zweite, sich von dem soeben Genannten zu verabschieden. (more…)
‘There is not an hour in a day when I don’t work’ – confessed Tom Ford in this documentary, that is the insight to the life of the world-renown designer; his view on fashion, work, and life in general. You will find some of the most inspiring quotes ever suppressed in the documentary, that is well worth the 40 minutes. Tom Ford had built an unmistakable fashion empire by the time he was 30 years old, starting off as head designer at Gucci, earning his way up in the fashion industry, besides lately directing films and being a multifaceted creative genius of the era, whose talent expand far beyond simply fashion. He explains “I believe in enhanced reality with fashion. Fashion creates a bit of a dream. That’s the whole point of I think dressing up, you feel better about yourself. It’s an enhanced version of who you are.” If this is the place for commercials, don’t miss watching his movie; A Single Man! It’s much more than just brilliant!
‘Es gibt keine Stunde am Tag, in der ich nicht arbeite’, gestand Tom Ford in seiner Dokumentation, die eine Einsicht in das Leben des weltberühmten Designers gibt, seine Sicht auf Mode, Arbeit und das Leben an sich. (more…)
Stella McCartney and Gwyneth Paltrow (Image: Fairchild)
Yet again a much awaited collaboration is on its way thank to our beloved creative duo, designer Stella McCartney and actress slash bestselling cookbook author slash curator Gwyneth Paltrow, who have teamed up to create a capsule collection for Paltrow’s lifestyle website, Goop. Featuring investment pieces designed by McCartney and curated by herself – as we just got to know it thank to Vogue – the collection will definitely be rejoiced by both the press and customers. There are rumours about the selection, which will feature ‘classic McCartney pieces including a black blazer, black jeans and black wool trousers, as well as several exclusive handbags – and will sit on the Goop Collection part of the company’s website, which offers products exclusive to Goop readers.’ If we follow Goop’s image, the collection must be just as practical as feminine by incorporating the knowledge of expert contributors and tastemakers and delivering an uncompromising style, and let’s be honest the latter will undoubtedly happen thank to the one and only Stella McCartney.
Es ist mal wieder eine lang erwartete Kollaboration auf dem Weg, dank unseres geliebten Duos, der Designerin Stella McCartney und Schauspielerin Schrägstrich Bestseller-Kochbuch-Autorin Schrägstrich Kuratorin Gwyneth Paltrow, die sich nun zusammen getan haben, um eine Capsule Collection für Paltrows Lifestyle Website, Goop, zu kreieren. (more…)