A.F. Vandevorst’s Spring/Summer 2014 (All images: Fairchild)
An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx met in 1987 on their first day of school at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp – in one of the most prestigious design schools in the whole world. The belgian brand’s current line is a complete women’s ready-to-wear line comprising of shoes, bags, accessories….oh and before I forget; they have just celebrated the 15-years-birthday of their label this season, so they dug into the archives to put together their SS14 collection. On first glance, I was really taken by the sand/rust effect that was applied on one side of each models’ outfit, and half of their hairdo-s were plastered in sand too – that gave cool continuous visual thread though out the collection. The pieces otherwise followed the inspiration of the girl on a trip with an adventurous attitude, hence resulting functional, clean and delicate garments reflecting the designers unique style. The collection as well paid homage to their signature designs that were redid for the season, such as impeccable tailored leather jackets, faux socks-and-sandal booties, flat studs on leather dresses, draped scarves shimmering with gold, mottled jacquards in shades of lively purple. HBD A.F. Vandevorst!
An Vandevorst und Filip Arickx lernten sich 1987 an ihrem ersten Tag auf der Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerpen kennen – eine der prestigeträchtigsten Schulen der Welt. (more…)
There are designers – only about a few – that no matter what they do, I ‘buy’ it; because it’s cool, it’s me, and most of all it’s consistently reaches the same target in one way or another, season after season – just like Chloè does. Even though I’m not the khaki-type of girl, those desert layers that were executed so effortlessly, that they slowly made me becoming one. Loose fine knit layers, linen trousers in army khaki and off whites ruled the catwalk for the season, while the accents were created at the hips with belts, as well as at the shoulders that were emphasised. Despite some awaited masculine silhouettes, ‘A girl more sensual than before’ was seen on the runway – this is how though Clare Waight Keller, the creative director of Chloé, defined the muse of her new collection. For sure not the colours, rather the delicate fabric choices and revolving transparency gave the feminine touch – a sense of sensuality to the collection. Keller mastered something else than just the layering too; the tight accordion pleats that were so much to-die-for besides the intricate lacework and patchwork prints. All in all what we saw was more of a typically French ease than the usual sophisticated tomboy style – wondering whether we shall call it a sort of Chloè revolution, where a new kind of sensual energy took over. Bravo – I must say – we are sold!
Es gibt nur wenige Designer, bei denen es ganz egal ist, was sie machen, aber ich es sofort ‘will’! Weil es cool ist, weil es zu mir passt und weil es immer das gleiche Ziel erreicht, jede Saison – so wie Chloè. Eigentlich bin ich nicht so der Typ für Khaki, aber die Lagen und die Coolness haben mich nach und nach überzeugt. (more…)
Jil Sander Spring 2014 RTW (All images: Fairchild)
In the last few years we have experienced a massive ‘they-come-and-go’ effect in case of creative directors at the biggest fashion houses; they switch, leave, disappear and might never come back or, on the contrary, they start to shine as a newborn stars under a different name – freshly. As always, there are exceptions – occasional comebacks. By now you might have already figured out that my flow of thoughts is referring to the latest breaking news about Jil Sander, who had now stepped down for the third time. While I would say – or rather bag – ‘Oh Jil, don’t go!’; Vogue already wonders, ‘Who Will Take The Reins At Jil Sander?’…The thing is though, that ever since she sold her company to Prada, back in 1999, she has not been sure whether she wanted to stay at all. As WWD reported, so far one name, Gabriele Colangelo, has come to the fore who took on the pared-back aesthetics, the precision of cut and apparently he is breathing the same minimalist air the brand has always been represented. She – Jil herself – gave us the women who is never over-decorated, by setting the standard for minimalism that was both courageous and inspiring yet most of all inimitable. The fashion lips say that the German designer is about to exit her eponymous brand due to personal reasons, and that is something we might never get to know for sure and we might actually don’t even need to do so…she deserves only our homage, no matter what. If you may apologise for getting too personal, I must say that this has been a real breaking news for us that brought some real sadness in its trail, but we know that she made her stamp on the fashion industry so firmly that it will never ever fade away. Thank you, Jil!
In den letzten Jahren gab es immer wieder ein Kommen und Gehen, was die Creative Directors der großen Modehäuser angeht: Sie wechseln die Marken, gehen oder verschwinden gar und kommen vielleicht nie wieder, aber andererseits erscheinen sie manchmal wie neugeboren und beginnen frisch von vorn unter einem neuen Namen. (more…)
Despite any misbeliefs, sporty is the new sexy (if you by any chance haven’t heard about it yet), mainly when the hot bodies are ‘covered’ by even hotter pieces. Victoria’s Secret introduces a sports collection worn by sporty Angels such as Candice Swanepoel, Behati Prinsloo, Doutzen Kroes or Lindsay Ellingson. The models show off the latest in’s in activewear for the season, by bringing the same sexy allure to athletic gear that they bring on the catwalk with the selection of sports bras or exercise pants. Since the bras are ringed in as the ‘world’s best sport bras’ we cannot wait to order some of them and keep alive the motivation for our daily fitness. By the way guys; do you have any tips how to stick with the sporty attitude during the colder months? We would love to hear some of your tips too…PS The world’s best sport bras are now available in all Victoria’s Secret stores and at VictoriasSecret.com in every kind of colour ways, yay!
Ob ihr es glauben wollt oder nicht, sportlich ist definitiv das neue sexy, denn es geht darum die heißen Bodys in noch heißere Dessous zu stecken! Victoria’s Secret bringt gerade eine Sportkollektion heraus, die von den fitten Models Candice Swanepoel, Behati Prinsloo, Doutzen Kroes oder Lindsay Ellingson präsentiert wird. (more…)
Isabel Marant is one of the most in-demand fashion lines in the world – and that is a fact. Having already given us statements like hidden-wedge sneakers or baroque wallpaper resembled bombers, she’s now reaching out to a wider crowd with her collaboration together with H&M. With words like very French, androgynous and bohemian I could best describe Marant’s world – you do feel her passion in her designs, while at the same time you do feel her modesty too. This makes the whole image around the brand very honest, yet very natural and apparently above all, hers. Set to hit stores on the 14th of November, the eagerly anticipated capsule collection by Isabel Marant for H&M sees the French designer unveil her debut menswear alongside women’s and kid’s – bringing together her Parisian chic versus laid-back references available for the public. Excitingly for male fans of the brand, Marant has also created her very first full men’s collection as part of the collaboration, featuring heavy knits, biker-inspired leather pants, embroidered jeans and outerwear by balancing a fine line between the male and female collection. Save the date, 14TH OF NOVEMBER!
Isabel Marant ist eine der gefragtesten Modelinien der Welt – und das ist ein Fakt. Sie hat uns schon früher mit Statements versorgt, wie den Sneakern mit versteckten Wedges oder den Bomberjacken mit Mustern, die uns an barocke Tapeten erinnern. (more…)
Another Hungarian fashion event took place on Saturday that we were pleased to be invited to, and I couldn’t wait sharing my insights with you guys. The Toni&Guy Fashion Week Budapest – just like last year – was held at the breathtaking venue of Palazzo Dorottya, running six shows one after the other, flavored with presentations by Dóra Abodi, Anh Tuan or Júlia Káldy. (more…)
In case you are already missing the warmest season, the Hermès Spring/Summer 2014 collection is definitely something for you as Christophe Lemaire took the Hermès woman into the jungle. Lemaire’s big influence was Henri Rousseau, the French artist, who painted jungles without ever having seen them. The venue just as much recalled a summer-atmosphere as did the collection; deep green jungles depicted the beautiful landscape of the Amazon. The range of summerish looks spoke of botanical freshness, embracing warm earth-colours and head-to-toe floral prints. The loose garments such as 3/4 trousers, straight dresses and trench-like airy coats flowed effortlessly around the body in a comfortable, yet slightly feminine manner. Relaxed silhouettes indicated the tropical-ease-of-living, while some statement leathers contrasted – or rather balanced – the simple culottes and low-cut shirts. By carefully sticking to that effortless chic that defines the Hermès look, it’s was both natural, wearable, and not least lovable.
Falls ihr schon die warme Jahreszeit vermisst, dann ist die Frühjahr/Sommer 2014 Kollektion von Hermès definitiv was für euch, denn Christophe Lemaire nahm die Hermès Frau mit in den Dschungel. (more…)
I suppose the name, Madeleine Vionnet sounds rather familiar and recalls the good-old fashion history lessons, where Vionnet‘s name was taught as a dogma, and truly, without doubt she was no less person than an architect among dressmakers, the queen of bias-cuts. I’ve found it important to mention this as after more than 100 years of heritage, Goga Ashkenazi – the house’s creative director – managed to reprise some elements from the classic Vionnet archives – you can still spot the delicately draped backs and closed fronts among the pieces. There was also a well thought-out expression of ease and effortlessness, a great flow of elegant minimalism that has been a little pushed into the background in the season. Instead of stiff volumes and edgy shapes, relaxed and lightweight pieces ruled the line-up creating soft, floaty, flattering silhouettes in the palette of light blues, yellows and natural, stony hues. The soft sky palette blended ease showcased a frankly charming demi-couture collection, that would fit in every woman’s wardrobe.
Der Name Madeleine Vionnet klingt ziemlich vertraut und erinnert an den guten alten Unterricht in Modegeschichte, wo Vionnets Name wie ein Dogma gelehrt wurde. (more…)
Italian brand Marni was founded by Consuelo Castiglioni back in 1994, who has been the label’s designer ever since, and has made her designs renown of iconic luxury and edge through a modern approach to materials and silhouette, juxtaposing colour, exclusive prints and textures. Her latest Sping/Summer 2014 collection included straight mid-calf skirts, bandeau crop tops and trousers that were almost cartoonishly wide. You could almost split up the the collection to a ‘purist’ and ‘excessive’ group; the latter was speaking of even ruffles and beaded embellishments applied on bombers and pencil skirts matched with sporty bejewelled visors and statement neck-pieces. The group of ‘purists’ embraced floral prints applied on flowing sheers and a bunch of powder-coloured pieces on which ruffles only detailed the edges. By the way the speciality of the show was as – due to a technical problem – the catwalk show happened in proper silence yet resulted a concentrated appreciation towards the pieces in Milan. I guess we will be seeing the pieces in the coolest editorials quite soon!
Die italienische Marke Marni wurde 1994 von Consuelo Castiglioni gegründet. Seitdem ist sie Designerin des Labels ist und ihre Designs sind bekannt für ikonischen Luxus und Edge, die sie durch eine moderne Herangehensweise an die Materialien und Silhouetten erschafft, wobei sie Farben, exklusive Prints und Texturen nebeneinander stellt. (more…)
Recently following Peter Pilotto‘s collections, each time I come to realise that it’s a new match made in heaven. Pilotto doesn’t do shine nor trousers, but instead explosive prints and highly voluminous dresses. The volumed effect was inspired by the L.A.-based artist, Ken Price ceramicist, who was particularly clever at creating a sense of depth and dappled variety in his glazes. The most emphasized shape among the pieces was a sculpted bell-shaped-skirt through exploring the boundaries of futuristic versus cute and leaving a rather contradictory stamp for the season. The perfectly rounded forms and electric digital prints combinations recalled a proper vibrant feast for the eyes, this time a more eye-catching than an any practical one. I’d just certainly congratulate, cause the duo dared to show a new-idealism of being fresh and innovative, but still classic and stylish!
Immer wenn ich in letzter Zeit Peter Pilottos Kollektionen verfolge, komme ich zu dem Schluss, dass einfach jede himmlisch ist! Pilotto steht weder für Glanz noch für Hosen, aber stattdessen für explosive Prints und höchst voluminöse Kleider. (more…)