A.F. Vandevorst’s Spring/Summer 2014 (All images: Fairchild)
An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx met in 1987 on their first day of school at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp – in one of the most prestigious design schools in the whole world. The belgian brand’s current line is a complete women’s ready-to-wear line comprising of shoes, bags, accessories….oh and before I forget; they have just celebrated the 15-years-birthday of their label this season, so they dug into the archives to put together their SS14 collection. On first glance, I was really taken by the sand/rust effect that was applied on one side of each models’ outfit, and half of their hairdo-s were plastered in sand too – that gave cool continuous visual thread though out the collection. The pieces otherwise followed the inspiration of the girl on a trip with an adventurous attitude, hence resulting functional, clean and delicate garments reflecting the designers unique style. The collection as well paid homage to their signature designs that were redid for the season, such as impeccable tailored leather jackets, faux socks-and-sandal booties, flat studs on leather dresses, draped scarves shimmering with gold, mottled jacquards in shades of lively purple. HBD A.F. Vandevorst!
An Vandevorst und Filip Arickx lernten sich 1987 an ihrem ersten Tag auf der Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerpen kennen – eine der prestigeträchtigsten Schulen der Welt. (more…)
There are designers – only about a few – that no matter what they do, I ‘buy’ it; because it’s cool, it’s me, and most of all it’s consistently reaches the same target in one way or another, season after season – just like Chloè does. Even though I’m not the khaki-type of girl, those desert layers that were executed so effortlessly, that they slowly made me becoming one. Loose fine knit layers, linen trousers in army khaki and off whites ruled the catwalk for the season, while the accents were created at the hips with belts, as well as at the shoulders that were emphasised. Despite some awaited masculine silhouettes, ‘A girl more sensual than before’ was seen on the runway – this is how though Clare Waight Keller, the creative director of Chloé, defined the muse of her new collection. For sure not the colours, rather the delicate fabric choices and revolving transparency gave the feminine touch – a sense of sensuality to the collection. Keller mastered something else than just the layering too; the tight accordion pleats that were so much to-die-for besides the intricate lacework and patchwork prints. All in all what we saw was more of a typically French ease than the usual sophisticated tomboy style – wondering whether we shall call it a sort of Chloè revolution, where a new kind of sensual energy took over. Bravo – I must say – we are sold!
Es gibt nur wenige Designer, bei denen es ganz egal ist, was sie machen, aber ich es sofort ‘will’! Weil es cool ist, weil es zu mir passt und weil es immer das gleiche Ziel erreicht, jede Saison – so wie Chloè. Eigentlich bin ich nicht so der Typ für Khaki, aber die Lagen und die Coolness haben mich nach und nach überzeugt. (more…)
Another Hungarian fashion event took place on Saturday that we were pleased to be invited to, and I couldn’t wait sharing my insights with you guys. The Toni&Guy Fashion Week Budapest – just like last year – was held at the breathtaking venue of Palazzo Dorottya, running six shows one after the other, flavored with presentations by Dóra Abodi, Anh Tuan or Júlia Káldy. (more…)
In case you are already missing the warmest season, the Hermès Spring/Summer 2014 collection is definitely something for you as Christophe Lemaire took the Hermès woman into the jungle. Lemaire’s big influence was Henri Rousseau, the French artist, who painted jungles without ever having seen them. The venue just as much recalled a summer-atmosphere as did the collection; deep green jungles depicted the beautiful landscape of the Amazon. The range of summerish looks spoke of botanical freshness, embracing warm earth-colours and head-to-toe floral prints. The loose garments such as 3/4 trousers, straight dresses and trench-like airy coats flowed effortlessly around the body in a comfortable, yet slightly feminine manner. Relaxed silhouettes indicated the tropical-ease-of-living, while some statement leathers contrasted – or rather balanced – the simple culottes and low-cut shirts. By carefully sticking to that effortless chic that defines the Hermès look, it’s was both natural, wearable, and not least lovable.
Falls ihr schon die warme Jahreszeit vermisst, dann ist die Frühjahr/Sommer 2014 Kollektion von Hermès definitiv was für euch, denn Christophe Lemaire nahm die Hermès Frau mit in den Dschungel. (more…)
I suppose the name, Madeleine Vionnet sounds rather familiar and recalls the good-old fashion history lessons, where Vionnet‘s name was taught as a dogma, and truly, without doubt she was no less person than an architect among dressmakers, the queen of bias-cuts. I’ve found it important to mention this as after more than 100 years of heritage, Goga Ashkenazi – the house’s creative director – managed to reprise some elements from the classic Vionnet archives – you can still spot the delicately draped backs and closed fronts among the pieces. There was also a well thought-out expression of ease and effortlessness, a great flow of elegant minimalism that has been a little pushed into the background in the season. Instead of stiff volumes and edgy shapes, relaxed and lightweight pieces ruled the line-up creating soft, floaty, flattering silhouettes in the palette of light blues, yellows and natural, stony hues. The soft sky palette blended ease showcased a frankly charming demi-couture collection, that would fit in every woman’s wardrobe.
Der Name Madeleine Vionnet klingt ziemlich vertraut und erinnert an den guten alten Unterricht in Modegeschichte, wo Vionnets Name wie ein Dogma gelehrt wurde. (more…)
Italian brand Marni was founded by Consuelo Castiglioni back in 1994, who has been the label’s designer ever since, and has made her designs renown of iconic luxury and edge through a modern approach to materials and silhouette, juxtaposing colour, exclusive prints and textures. Her latest Sping/Summer 2014 collection included straight mid-calf skirts, bandeau crop tops and trousers that were almost cartoonishly wide. You could almost split up the the collection to a ‘purist’ and ‘excessive’ group; the latter was speaking of even ruffles and beaded embellishments applied on bombers and pencil skirts matched with sporty bejewelled visors and statement neck-pieces. The group of ‘purists’ embraced floral prints applied on flowing sheers and a bunch of powder-coloured pieces on which ruffles only detailed the edges. By the way the speciality of the show was as – due to a technical problem – the catwalk show happened in proper silence yet resulted a concentrated appreciation towards the pieces in Milan. I guess we will be seeing the pieces in the coolest editorials quite soon!
Die italienische Marke Marni wurde 1994 von Consuelo Castiglioni gegründet. Seitdem ist sie Designerin des Labels ist und ihre Designs sind bekannt für ikonischen Luxus und Edge, die sie durch eine moderne Herangehensweise an die Materialien und Silhouetten erschafft, wobei sie Farben, exklusive Prints und Texturen nebeneinander stellt. (more…)
Recently following Peter Pilotto‘s collections, each time I come to realise that it’s a new match made in heaven. Pilotto doesn’t do shine nor trousers, but instead explosive prints and highly voluminous dresses. The volumed effect was inspired by the L.A.-based artist, Ken Price ceramicist, who was particularly clever at creating a sense of depth and dappled variety in his glazes. The most emphasized shape among the pieces was a sculpted bell-shaped-skirt through exploring the boundaries of futuristic versus cute and leaving a rather contradictory stamp for the season. The perfectly rounded forms and electric digital prints combinations recalled a proper vibrant feast for the eyes, this time a more eye-catching than an any practical one. I’d just certainly congratulate, cause the duo dared to show a new-idealism of being fresh and innovative, but still classic and stylish!
Immer wenn ich in letzter Zeit Peter Pilottos Kollektionen verfolge, komme ich zu dem Schluss, dass einfach jede himmlisch ist! Pilotto steht weder für Glanz noch für Hosen, aber stattdessen für explosive Prints und höchst voluminöse Kleider. (more…)
By being involved in significant Fashion Weeks both as press and two helping hands backstage whether it is London, Milan, Copenhagen or Paris for some time past, such event as the Hungarian Marie Claire Fashion Days only filled me with great excitement and curiosity – something very different, yet truly awaited. For the first time in SilkSoFine’s history we got the pleasure to spend our Friday night among the latest; as well as the well-established Hungarian talents, cream of the local media, theatres, sport world and music industry. The line-up featured ten designers presenting their Spring/Summer 2014 collections in the breathtaking VAM Design Center within the confines of an exclusive show slash VIP reception. After the lovely welcoming words of Marie Claire’s Chief Editor, Krisztina László, brands like NUBU, Nóra Sármán, Dóra Konsánszky or Dóra Abodi took over the catwalk. The night’s speciality was as the first look of each designer were worn by well-known Hungarian personalities. / Obwohl ich schon bei einigen nennenswerten Fashion Weeks involviert war, sowohl als Presse als auch als helfende Hand im Backstagebereich, ob nun in London, Mailand, Kopenhagen oder Paris, erwartete ich die ungarischen Marie Claire Fashion Days mit großer Spannung und Neugierde – weil es doch anders ist und ich mich wirklich drauf gefreut hab. (more…)
Today’s post got two aims; one is to feature the latest Louis Vuitton collection designed by Marc Jacobs, while the second is to say good-bye to the man just mentioned. Well yes; call it breaking news but the rumours are confirmed facts by now; Marc Jacobs is leaving LV after his 16-year-long tenure at the brand. Jacobs presented his final show in Paris, that was dedicated to celebrate his greatest hits – created entirely in black, as was his first show for the label. An eclectic mash-up of sheers, feathers, denim and excess could best describe the pieces with a hint of tomboyish feel. ‘Jacobs dedicated the show to all the women who have inspired him and the showgirl in every one of them’ – as he explained to Vogue. The reason of his leaving though – as WWD reported – is that the American designer wants to focus on taking his brand public on the stock market, as it heads towards an IPO. Well, I suppose an era has just ended and a new one is yet to come…Hello former Balenciaga creative director, Nicolas Ghesquière?
Der heutige Post hat zwei Ziele: Das erste ist, die aktuelle Louis Vuitton Kollektion Designed by Marc Jacobs vorzustellen, und das zweite, sich von dem soeben Genannten zu verabschieden. (more…)
Stella McCartney SS14 (All images: Fairchild)
Apparently our Stella McCartney fascination will never end and this is more than statement, however what we have witnessed was proper minimalism in terms of her latest collection. Whether it is genius or just simply not appealing to you, decide it on your own, but let’s line up some of our pros. To go against purity, the richly detailed Opera Garnier venue provided the perfect backdrop for the smart-chic collection, that was much about ease and carefreeness. Modern elegance could best describe the nature of the collection, that included laced dresses, tops with alligator skin reassembling prints, rounded sunnies and large volumed shoulders on shirts. Putting an emphasis on understatement, Stella’s Spring will bring us laid-black glam that has both feminine, sporty and lingerie-like elements. But whether light-as-air and fluid-as-a-story-to-tell, this neutral coloured game with transparency versus opacity, only made it straight into our hearts and top of our wish-lists. Are you guys with us?
Offensichtlich wird unsere Faszination für Stella McCartney niemals enden und das ist nicht nur so daher gesagt. Was wir jedoch bezeugen durften, war purer Minimalismus, was ihre neuste Kollektion betrifft. (more…)